Decking Care

Cleaning

Any decking will benefit from regular cleaning although the frequency of this will depend on the sort of usage to which the deck is subject.

Occasional brushing with a stiff broom will normally be adequate for most decks to remove dirt, dead leaves or any slight surface growth in areas where there may have been little wear. The brush should be stiff enough to remove any dirt that may have accumulated in drainage grooves or gaps but not stiff enough to damage any applied surface finish.

Brushing the deck regularly will not only maintain the appearance but will reduce any risk of slipperiness developing from surface growth, engrained dirt, or standing water accumulating due to blocked grooves or gaps between the boards.

Cleaning public decks is frequently carried out by mechanical brushes but rotary brushes are less effective than the cylindrical type in cleaning dirt from grooves and gaps. One advantage of running boards along the deck, rather than across, is that the grooves and gaps can be more easily cleaned by machine. If coarse fibre or wire brushes are used these will tend to remove any surface finish very quickly and can seriously scour the surface even of dense hardwoods. It is important to check that an appropriate brush stiffness is chosen.

On large decks for public use it is especially important to keep the drainage grooves clear because even with clean drainage grooves it takes longer for any surface water to drain away from a large area.

If a non-slip surface finish is applied, or there are non-slip inserts in the grooves, particular care must be taken with any mechanical cleaning to ensure that the surface finish is not removed or the inserts dislodged by the brushing.

It is not advisable to wash down timber decks with large quantities of water or hoses because there is a risk of wetting the boards sufficiently to cause some moisture movement. This could affect the life of any surface finish and lead to increased surface checking when the boards dry in the sun and shrink. However cleaning with a high pressure hose which combines air with a small quantity of water, will dislodge dirt effectively without excessively wetting the wood.

Local soiling and surface growth can usually be removed by mild detergent solutions but if stains are more deep seated on unfinished boards it may be necessary to use specialist deck cleaners which remove dirt, algae and mildew. If using dilute household bleach, the effect should be tested to determine the appropriate strength before it is used in any quantity on the boards. If the stains are from chemicals or metals and still resist this treatment it may be necessary to use special products available for deck restoration which can generally remove quite deep seated stains.

To avoid uneven bleaching, or variation in the colour of a stain finish, it is advisable to occasionally move around any furniture, or other objects, kept permanently on the deck. Any planters or plant pots should be stood on metal trays so that watering does not result in the deck under the pots being permanently wetted, leading to discolouration and mould growth. If the drip trays are supported on battens the top surface of the deck will also be well ventilated.

Tightening fixings and re-surfacing

After the deck has been in use for some time it may be necessary to carry out two forms of maintenance.

The first is to ensure that all the boards are firmly held down. Shrinkage and sometimes wear can result in the loosening or 'popping' of fixings. Nails should be driven home flush to the surface of the boards, and screws tightened as necessary.

Occasionally it may be necessary to replace individual boards that may have been distorted or become more worn in heavily used areas of the deck.

Besides tightening the deck fixings it is advisable to also inspect any bolted or screwed connections in the sub-structure which may have become loose through shrinkage of the wood, and tighten these as necessary. It is advisable to first do this check about six months after the deck has been completed by which time any substantial shrinkage in the wood should have taken place.

The second form of maintenance would normally only be required for unfinished decks where the surface may have become encrusted or worn over time. If the decks are of unfinished hardwood occasional mechanical scouring with wire brushes or sanding will remove mould growth, loose material, engrained dirt or surface staining but it is important to avoid scouring or sanding to the extent that the surface is excessively worn down or, alternatively polished, to a level that would increase slipperiness of the surface.

Alternatively, the use of specific timber deck cleaners will remove growths, clean and may brighten greyed timber.

Re-finishing

Any surface finish will require regular inspection and occasional re-coating. Clear moisture resistant coatings should preferably be re-applied annually but pigmented stains will last several years (depending on the product, the quality of application, the exposure and usage of the deck). It is important that the deck and the grooves and gaps between boards are completely cleaned before the application of a new coat of stain.

If the existing stain has broken down to the extent that the wood has begun to turn grey in places, it is also important to brush away any loose fibres from the surface or treat with a cleaner before re-applying stain.

The deck should be as dry as possible before any stain is applied and the temperature should be within the range prescribed by the manufacturers. It is always advisable to use the same product for refinishing to ensure that the new coating is compatible with the old.

2010 Pond Pumps - Which One?

Pumps are used to move water. So, depending on your pond the type of water feature you may have, its location and also if your pond contains fish there are a number of things you need to consider.

The vertical height of the waterfall inlet above the water surface of the pond. - This may sound technical but basically what it means is how high is the water above the level of your pond or water reservoir.

The width of the water overflow point for the waterfall. -This is most relevant to something like a cascading waterfall which may have one or more outlets such as a water feature in a rockery. All you need to do is measure the width of the over flow points. If the water falls back into the pond at numerous points then you will need to total the width of all points. This is not required for water features such as fountains.

What is the water capacity of your pond or reservoir. Usually you calculate this in gallons. You will need to know the the length x width x average depth (in feet).

Are you going to have fish? - if so, you will also need to have a filter and UVC (ultra violet clarifier). The fish pollute the water and will increase the toxic levels of your pond. Filters remove these suspended solids. There are there main types of filters, gravity flow, a pressurised filter and specialist filets that are a combination of both.

The tables below will help you buy the relevant pump for a pond or water feature;

Pond with over flow point (s) - you need the length from the pond and total width of over flow.

height	1 ft high	2 ft high	3 ft high	4 ft high	5 ft high	6 ft high
width
3" wide	350 gph	500 gph	500 gph	500 gph	700 gph	700 gph
6" wide	700 gph	700 gph	700 gph	700 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph
9" wide	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph
12" wide	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph

Pumps recommendations for ponds with no waterfall;

Volume	300 galls	500 galls	1000 galls	1500 galls	2000 galls	2500 galls
GPH	350 gph	350 gph	500 gph	700 gph	1200 gph	1200 gph

Therefore if you had a pond whose total volume is 1,000 gallons then a good pump choice would be one that can pump about half of of this volume per hour.In this case a pump of 500 gph flow would do. If in doubt always go one pump size bigger.

Barbeques - What To Consider

An essential part of relaxed outdoor entertaining, a barbecue comes close to the top of most people's garden wish list. From the portable and disposable to the stainless steel and sophisticated there are a multitude of barbecues to chose from.

The success of your outdoor culinary exploits not only depends on your bbq cooking skills but also upon choosing the right barbecue to meet your needs. Before investing in a barbecue sit down and think about what you really need.

Among the key points to consider are:

1. your budget

2. the number of people you hope to cater for

3. the space available in the garden and for winter storage

For occasional, small-scale cooking disposable barbecues, foil trays complete with charcoal and lighter paper, are very successful. They are easy to light and burn well for a reasonable length of time. They are perfect for the smallest of spaces or even a picnic, but are not for the serious outdoor cook.

Charcoal burning barbecues come in a multitude of shapes and sizes, some are built to fold away, others are on wheels, some require upwards of 2 metres of patio space others less than a quarter of that. Many boast hot plates, griddles or rotisseries and areas to keep the food warm, but before you invest, it is wise to go back to what you really need and consider the basics.

Look at the size of the cooking area - bangers and burgers or tiger prawns and sea bass will it be large enough to cope? Next consider the size of the barbecue itself, not only do you need space enough for the barbecue but allow room to work around it, tables to hold uncooked food, tools and marinades and for the cluster of guests who will naturally gather around the barbecue in the relaxed informality of the barbecue. It is also worth remembering you will also need enough space at the back of the garage or in the shed to store it over the winter.

Like all garden equipment the barbecue should be robust enough to put up with the wear and tear that is part of outdoor life. Look for a sturdy construction, with metal work, paint and fittings that will resist corrosion.

Some large barbecues come with a cover to provide some protection, if not it is well worth buying a waterproof cover, available from DIY stores, to protect your investment. Finally check on ease of cleaning and charcoal removal. For something that will be centre stage, style is a major consideration, and there are plenty to chose from, contemporary gleaming stainless steel to cheerful bright colours, its all a matter of personal taste but select something that will fits in with the style of your garden or the mood you are trying to create.

For those who find the whole process of lighting charcoal, standing in billowing smoke and waiting for the barbecue to reach the right heat just too time consuming, difficult or daunting a gas barbecue is the perfect solution. Though shunned as cheating by some gas barbecues offer controllable, consistent heat at the touch of a button, ensuring that food can be cooked to perfection. Fuelled by propane gas cylinders which are available from DIY and hardware stores, a gas barbecue offers perhaps the most reliable way to cook outdoors.

If you are a dedicated to open air cookery it could be worth designing your own brick or stone barbecue, perhaps as part of an outdoor kitchen. This way you have the luxury of ensuring it is tailored perfectly to your needs, the best shape, size, height and style for you. The construction need not be complex, single brick walls with a tray for the charcoal and runners for the grill will suffice, or you could incorporate areas of work surface and even storage cupboards to create a real feature, a practical outdoor kitchen.

The down side of a permanent barbecue is that as a permanent fixture it constantly occupies space in the garden even when you aren't using it and you can't follow the sun (or shade) to another part of the garden as you can with an off the shelf barbecue. As a permanent feature a great deal of thought need to go into its design so it becomes an attractive addition to the garden rather than an eyesore, as always chose something that fits the style of the garden. Few gardens can successfully carry off an imposing range or Mediterranean style construction. One solution is to disguise the barbecue, constructing it reasonably low so when it is not in use a slatted wooden top can be added and it becomes a bench. When planning a permanent barbecue always allow plenty of space for working and for people to congregate.

Increasingly popular to take the chill off summers evenings, chimineas boast the possibility of cooking over the fire in the bottle shaped terracotta body. The reality is that for the standard chimineas it really isn't a practical option for a full- scale meal.

Some chimineas are adapted for cooking making them far more practical, but retain the traditional terracotta form that is so popular. A new development, the Bushman Barbecue has the same appeal as the chiminea but the added benefits of sophisticated cooking systems, the resilience to withstand a British winter, the capability to burn house coal and the possibility of customising the burner to match your garden colour scheme.

Herb Garden

Where to site your herb garden?

Ideally, the sunniest part of your garden. Herbs like an open and sunny but sheltered site, with neutral to alkaline soil, with good drainage.

If you have clay soil, the best thing to do is roughly dig over the soil in autumn and leave the soil to be broken down by frost over the winter. This works by the rough soil being exposed to the wet weather and soaked by water and when the frosts come, the soil expand and breaks down.

Then in early spring - and this goes for sandy, chalky or silt soil as well - dig through plenty of organic matter, such as well-rotted garden or mushroom compost. This will provide the free-draining and fertile bed your herbs will need. You do not need to feed or fertilise your herbs as this will result in lots of growth, but do little to enhance the flavour or aroma. Herbs with excessive growth are also more prone to frost damage.

Planning

The planning for your herb garden is only limited by the size of your plot and your imagination. What would you like to grow? And how big will it get??
When you buy herbs in pots from a garden centre, on the label it will tell you how tall, and wide your plant will get. Often, packets of seeds will give you the same information. When planning your garden, you will need to take into account the eventual size of your plants. For instance, if you are planning an island border in your lawn, the tallest herbs go in the centre and the lower-growing ones on the outside.

Varieties

There is an extensive selection of herbs available, so are you going to use your herbs for cooking or adding aroma and fragrance to your garden, As well varieties don’t forget colour. Herbs come in a range of colours from cream to glossy green, to silver, and all shades of pink to deep purple.

Herbs in containers

If you have limited space in your garden then herbs are also idea for containers. Just remember to use quality multi-purpose compost and make sure the containers have adequate drainage. You must make sure the containers are kept well watered, as they tend to dry out a lot quicker than if they are planted in the ground.

Some herbs are very invasive such as mint so it would be advisable to plant this in its own container. Again, check the planting instructions that come with your herbs to see what the overall size of the herb will be once fully grown

Popular Garden Herbs

	BASIL, SWEET (Ocimum basilicum) Both green and 'Dark Opal' basil are attractive plants for the garden. Basil is not difficult to transplant. Grows to 18 inches; space 12 inches between plants. 'Dark Opal' has beautiful deep red foliage and lovely pink flowers. Basil is very good to use to flavour tomato juice and tomato pastes.
	BORAGE (Borago officinalis) This has pinkish blossoms which turn blue like the perennial pulmonaria. It is an annual and should be planted directly to the garden in early May in the North. Growing to 2 feet it should be spaced 10 inches apart. Germinates in 7 -to 10 days. Resents transplanting except when quite small. It is excellent used in tossed salad to add a flavour.
	CHERVIL (Anthriscus cerefolium) Although this plant will germinate in the fall and live over the winter it is best to grow it as an annual, sowing in mid-May Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 8 inches apart. This herb grows quickly and is mature in 6 weeks. Resents transplanting. Fresh leaves can be frozen in small packets after washing carefully.
	CHIVES (Allium scboenoprasum) This is a perennial plant that are very easy to grown from seed or plant. Mature plants grow to 12 inches, space 6 inches apart. They are very hardy even in cold locations. Flowers are pretty enough so that chives can be grown as a border or in the rock garden. Ideal in salads, egg dishes and a variety of sauces. Chives will also grow on a sunny windowsill over winter.
	DILL (Anethum graveolens) This is an easily grown annual with feathery foliage. Blossoms are tiny and pale yellow. Grows to 2 1/2 feet and germinates in 7 to 10 days planted at the same time as tender vegetables. Resents transplanting. May be spaced as close as 4 inches apart. Self-sows readily. Fine for use in pickling and to flavour meats.
	MARJORAM, SWEET (Majorana hortensis) This is a perennial that grows to 12 inches; space 6 inches apart. Plants may be potted up and grown in the greenhouse or sunny window over the winter. Adds a delicate flavour to lamb, fish, salads and soups.
	MINT (Mentha spicata) Mint is very easy to grow. It is a hardy perennial and spreads by root stolons. Sown indoors seed germinates in 10 to 15 days. It grows to 2 feet and is rather sprawling, in habit. Space 12 inches apart. Favours a good rich soil. Fine to use for mint jelly and in mint juleps, lemonade and other fruit drinks.
	SAGE (Saivia officinalis) This is a hardy perennial and is often grown in gardens for its pretty foliage and spikes of bluish flowers. Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 12 inches apart. Can be sown outdoors in May with germination in 21 to 30 days. An ideal herb for dressings for chicken, turkey, pork and for flavouring sausages.

Algae Advice

What are Algae?

Algae are a large and successful group of organisms, which flourish in the sea, in fresh-water and in damp places on land. Most algae contain green chlorophyll, and can produce foods, such as sugars, from the sun. Although they seem plant-like, scientists have classified them in a group of their own, outside the plant kingdom. They have been classified in a separate kingdom called Protista.

Whereas plants always have specialised reproductive structures made up of many different types of cell, algae do not.

Algae reproduce by using little spores, or by growing copies of themselves from buds or broken-off fragments.

Algae can be lively little characters, even though they are not animals. Many are made of a single cell, and cannot be individually examined without a microscope. Many of these little algae can swim.

Some, called Dinoflagellates , have little whip-like structures (flagella), which pull them through the water.

Some algae squish part of their body forwards and crawl along solid surfaces.

Some algae are made of fine filaments, with cells joined from end to end. Some of them clump together to form colonies. Others, like many seaweeds, are very large and grow in the shape of tubes, clubs and trees. These large algae have thick root-like structures, called "holdfasts" which can cling onto rocks.

Are Algae Important?

Algae are extremely important. They produce more oxygen than all the plants in the world, put together. They are also a very important food source for tiny animals such as little shrimps and huge animals like whales.

Because algae are at the bottom of the food chain many living things depend upon them.

Aerating the Lawn

What is lawn aeration?

Lawn aeration is the process of creating air channels in your lawn so that air can freely pass into the soil and circulate around the grass roots. Its is achieved by either removing small cylinder shaped cores about 0.5cm wide and 5-10cm deep (similar to the idea of coring an apple) , this is known as core aeration, or by creating aeration channels by inserting solid spikes (such as the tines of a garden fork) into the soil.

Why do you need to aerate the lawn?

Over time the soil that the lawn grows on can become compacted which can have a negative effect on your lawn. The damage to your lawn from soil compaction results from the pore spaces within the soil becoming smaller and this leads to both a reduced amount of air held in the soil, restricted air flow and reduced water infiltration into the soil.

Reduced air levels and restricted air circulation in the soil means that the grass roots are less able to take up oxygen. Reduced soil pore space also leads to reduced levels of nutrient uptake from the soil. Oxygen is a vital input into a plants growth cycle. If the ability of water to infiltrate the soil is limited by soil compaction then the water will not infiltrate as deeply into the soil as normal, this means the lawns roots will not develop as deeply and so the lawn will be more at risk from drought.

How does lawn aeration benefit my lawn?

• Lawn aeration has a number of benefits including:
• Increased water, oxygen and nutrient uptake by the grass roots
• Improved development of roots to greater soil depths
• Enhancing water infiltration into the soil
• Encouraging the breakdown and decomposition of thatch by soil microorganisms

Does your lawn need aerating?

How can you tell if our lawn needs aerating? The simplest way to determine this is to remove a section of turf from the edge of the lawn to the depth of a spade. If the roots of the grass are only reaching an inch or two from the soil surface then your soil is potentially compacted and could benefit from aeration.

How do I aerate the lawn?

Lawn aeration can be carried out by hand or with the aid or a lawn aerator machine. Lawn aeration should be carried out once a year and should be carried out at the beginning of the lawns growing season, normally early spring. There will be less competition for light, water and soil resources from weeds at this point in the growing season.

When should you avoid aerating the lawn?

If you have sown a new lawn from seed then do not aerate it in its first year of growth. If you have a lawn that receives no significant compacting affects and you have aerated it recently then there may be no need to aerate it every year. You should also avoid aerating the lawn after periods of heavy rainfall when the soil is wet through. This is because wet soil will stick in the ‘cores’ of the aerator and so the coring action of the aerator is greatly impeded.

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Grow Your Own -Sowing Seeds

I must admit, that as a garden designer I usually restock my garden direct from the nursery or a local garden centre, mainly for time, ease and selection.

However last year, having been dazzled by an array of seeds I decided to grow my own. Some catalogues boost over 600 varieties so, whether you are into flowers, herbs or vegetables there's a massive range of plants that can be cultivated.

I found growing from seed relatively easy, but you do need a little patience and obviously some space. The packets have detailed instructions to guide you through the stages and there are numerous websites that will provide individual growing guides.

Basically, there are three key stages; sowing, pricking out and potting up. But, I did try a variety of seeds that you sow direct which were also successful and more time efficient.

Sowing

I suggest starting of with a small selection of your favourite seeds as you could end up with pots of soil all over the place. Not ideal especially if space is limited.

Seed trays with clear lids provide a one-stop solution for your initial sowing. Half fill the trays with sowing compost and firm down. Tiny seeds can be scattered over the surface of the compost. For larger seeds make a hole using a pencil and sow an individual seed. Cover over with a thin layer of fresh compost and water with slightly tepid water.

Pricking Out

When your seedlings have two or more sets of leaves and are large enough to handle it's time to give them more room to grow.

Water the seeds an hour or so before you handle them to loosen the soil and make it easier to separate the roots. Whilst you’re waiting, fill some larger pots with seed and cutting compost and using a pencil make four of five holes in the surface. Gently, tease the seedlings from the seed trays, separate and then drop the roots into the individual holes in your large pots. Water them in with some tepid water. I found a spray bottle excellent for this.

Potting Up Seedlings

Once your young seedlings have grown and matured, they will need to be potted up to their own individual pots to allow them to develop before they can be planted out.

Again, soak the seedlings before transplanting. Fill individual 3-inch (7.5cm) pots with a multi-purpose compost and make a hole in each pot big enough to take the roots. Gently dig out the plants holding onto a leaf and not the delicate stem and then drop the roots into the hole.

Keep in a frost-free place, water and feed them regularly with plant food to support the early spring growth and to ensure the best possible start.

Compost and Mulch

Compost and mulch are two of a gardener's best friends. It is beneficial for strong and healthy plants and will significantly increase the productivity of your garden. Their long lasting benefits save time and effort in all types of gardens. There are many forms of compost and mulch. Some are organic while others are artificial. What's the Difference between Compost and Mulch? Compost is any kind of decayed, organic plant or animal matter. In the home garden, we think of compost as organic plant matter. It's nutrient rich composition acts as a natural fertilizer for your plants. The act of "composting" is the process where organic plant and animal matter decays as a result of piling it up and allowing it to decay through the natural process of decomposition. This is accomplished over a period of time by means of natural bacteria and often aided by worms, heat ,and water. Compost is literally any organic matter. It can include weeds, grass clippings, hay, seaweed, garden waste, kitchen scraps, tree leaves, or branches to name a few. It can also be animal matter. Animal matter is discouraged, as it has several disadvantages, most notably attracting unwanted garden pests. Mulch on the other hand, is any material placed around plants as a protective covering for the purpose of: Reducing weeds around the plants Increasing or decreasing soil temperature Retaining moisture around the plant Mulches can be organic such as compost, wood chips, grass clippings, or hay to name a few. Or, they could be inorganic such as black plastic newspaper, or even aluminium foil. The benefit of organic is that it also enriches the soil. In-organic mulches can be much more efficient in keeping out weeds. But they are of no benefit to the composition of your garden soil. How to Compost: There is not much you can do wrong long term to the compost pile. Pile up any organic matter and it will decompose over time. If you simply pile it on, it will decompose eventually. What most gardeners want however, is to speed up the composting process and avoid the pitfalls of bad odour and attracting unwanted pests. A well maintained and active compost pile will convert organic material to compost in as little as thirty days. Left to nature, it could take several months or even a year. The byproduct of active decomposition is heat. . A compost pile can actually become so hot that it ignites. This is a not so rare an occurrence, most commonly occurring in large town or industrial composting. The Basics to Good Composting: Select an area to create your pile. Many people opt to close in their pile with fencing or acquire a home composter. Home composters are neat and more aesthetically pleasing than a pile of weeds in the middle of your yard. Add any organic matter from your garden or yard. Also include any vegetable waste from your kitchen, including egg shells, coffee grounds, tea bags, etc. If possible, alternate layers of green (new) and brown waste. This helps the mixing process, and aids in decomposition. Keep the compost pile moist, but not wet. Turn the pile over from time to time to maximize air circulation to the bacteria and microbes that "eat" and convert your pile into rich compost. Use the compost after it has almost completely turned into soil. It will be rich in nutrients and minerals. Use and enjoy! Some Do's and Don'ts: Do stir the pile to allow air penetration Don't put animal remains or meat and fats from cooking in the pile. While they may be rich in nutrients, they attract unwanted little "critters" Do keep the pile moist Don't put grass clippings too thickly, or they will smell as they decay and decay slower. Chip or shred larger items such a branches and plant stalks if possible. The more area bacteria has to work, the quicker the decomposition. Don't put diseased plants of any kind into the compost pile. They can overwinter in the pile and re-infest your garden next year. Speeding up the process: Stirring the pile from time to time, speeds up the process Keep it loose to allow air flow Red worms will speed up the composting process. Add them to your pile once and they should reproduce

Plants Suitable for Drought Conditions

Drought tolerant plants are plants that can sustain significant periods of drought without suffering undue harm. However, even drought tolerant plants will need watering after planting until their root systems become fully established.

Annuals & bedding

Alcea
Alyssum
Amaranthus
Brachycombe
Calendula
Cosmos
Eschscholzia
Felicia
Gazania
Lunaria annua
Mesembryanthemum
Papaver somniferum
Portulaca
Salvia farinacea

Ornamental grasses

Cortaderia selloana
Festuca glauca
Helictotrichon sempervirens
Panicum virgatum
Pennisetum
Phalaris arundinacea
Pseudosasa japonica

Stipa

Herbaceous perennials

Achillea
Alchemilla mollis
Anaphalis
Asphodeline lutea
Baptisia autralis
Carlina acaulis
Catananche caerulea
Centaurea cineraria
Centranthus ruber
Cerastium tomentosum
Crambe cordifolia
Crepis incana
Cynara cardunculus
Dianthus (border carnations; pinks)
Echinops
Erodium
Eryngium
Euphorbia
Geranium

Gypsophila paniculata
Heuchera
Linum perenne
Liriope
Marrubium vulgare

Climbers/wall-trained shrubs

Abutilon
Acacia

Caesalpinia gillesii
Campsis
Cotoneaster horizontalis
Eccremocarpus scaber
Eriobotrya japonica
Erythrina crista-galli
Euonymus fortunei 'Silver Queen'
Fallopia baldschuanicum
Fremontodendron
Garrya elliptica
Hedera
Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris
Jasminum
Lathyrus latifolius
Lonicera japonica
Lycium barbarum

Winter Colour For Your Garden

Although winter approaches with shorter days and colder, wet weather, your garden needn't look lifeless and bland. With some creative planning using a combination of texture and colour, any outdoor space can look rich and vibrant over the coming months.

The key at this time of year is to plant your flowering plants nearer to your house in blocks of colour especially close to windows and along pathways. This will help to give the impression that the whole of your garden is still in bloom.

Whites, pinks and purples look good together and will create a brilliant winter display. Complementary plants are winter violas, pansies and dusty miller (Senecio Cineraria). Evergreen grasses, such as Carex, Acorus, blend beautifully with ornamental kale and cabbage and make great focal points. Flowering kale is also a great accent for evergreen ground cover and looks amazing planted below trees and winter flowering shrubs like Viburnum ‘Pink Dawn’.

There are many versatile trees, shrubs and plants that can give depth and texture to your garden and bring amazing colour with flowers, berries and leaves. You don’t have to worry if you have limited planting beds either, as many of these plants will also thrive in pots with the right care and attention.

Selection of winter colour plants and shrubs.

• Ilex Aquifolium J.C. Van Tol - English Holly: Dark, almost spineless green leaves and large, regular crops of red fruit
• Daphne Mezereum – Daphne: Well-known, sweet scented deciduous shrub flowering in February and March. Purple red flowers followed by scarlet fruits
• Callicarpa profusion - Beauty Berry: Free-fruiting shrub with bronze-purple foliage and dense clusters of violet fruits
• Chimonanthus praecox- Winter-sweet: Flowers around Christmas with beautiful purple centred yellow
• Helleborus Niger - Christmas Rose: Very easy to grow and blooming from Autumn through until spring
• Erica carnea - Springwood White (cultivar): Low-growing sub shrub reaching 10-25 cm in height. Evergreen needle leaves and dark red bell shaped flowers
• Lonicera Fragrantissima - Shrubby honeysuckle: Lovely flowering species with delicate creamy white flowers
• Corylus Avellana Contorta - Corkscrew Hazel: Easily to grow and very interesting visually, branches literally do corkscrew with beautiful rich green
• Garry Elliptica- Silk- tassel bush: Long tassels hang from this impressive plant during winter and early Spring, very unusual plant that complements more traditional plants in the garden
• Gaultheria Mucronata - Prickly heath: Evergreen shrub with dark green glossy leaves and clusters of small white flowers and purple fruit

Our Winter Neighbours

As winter arrives, so will the hard times for many of our wildlife neighbours. And as we are all aware, a regular winter can be a test for all animals and a long winter can be a disaster.

However, before we all rush out with scraps of food, wildlife biologists warn that such acts of kindness may result in unintended but often fatal results. Their reasons being; that congregating animals are susceptible to disease just as we are in close quarters, mouldy and wet food may cause illness, the old and young often do not get their fair share and predators are more likely to lurk in every corner.

Remember all those signs, ‘do not feed the animals’! But, if we combine a well balanced diet (in moderation, warn our wildlife experts) with a few other simple gardening tasks, we can all help in providing a winter haven throughout the cold months ahead. Also, what better way to watch our wildlife at close quarters?

Helping birds

Fat blocks in wire cages or feeders can help to provide extra winter food for our feathered friends. But, variety is important as different recipes will help to entice a greater selection of birds. Although, fat is important a well balanced diet should also include a grain mix, seeds or nuts. Over-ripe apples and raisins will help to attract thrushes and blackbirds.

By topping up you feeders on a regular basis this will help to ensure that birds do not waste vital energy visiting your garden when there is no food. Also, keep you feeders clean by wiping down every 2 -3 days with a very mild solution of bleach and warm water.

If you want to go even further, you could also plant berry and fruit trees such as Malus, Cotoneaster and Pyracantha.

Other Wildlife

Below is a list of simple tasks that will help to turn your garden into a wildlife haven;

Always check bonfires before they are lit in case there are sheltering and hibernating animals, often a favourite for hedgehogs, toads and frogs.

1. If you have a pond with ice, then melt it to allow the wildlife to drink and enter and leave the water. Do not hit or crack the ice as this can send shockwaves through the water that harms wildlife. Alternatively, leaving a ball on the surface will help to stop ice forming.
2. If you have a compost heap, again be careful if you turn it. The warmth of the compost can be a winter resort for frogs, toads and other animals.
3. Providing a shallow dish or container with water at ground level will benefit a range of wildlife that need to drink, as well as our feathered friends.
4. If you have bird boxes, then clean then out in late winter so they are ready for new nests in spring.

Lush Green Lawns

Standing barefoot on a beautiful lawn triggers our associations with the sound and smell of nature and visions of dense greenery. So, how do you keep your lawn in first-class condition throughout the summer months?

In many family gardens, the lawn generally occupies the largest area of our outdoor space and maintaining it should be seen as a rewarding experience and past time, rather than a burden.

Throughout the long summer months you should simply focus on mowing, watering and feeding. However, lawn diseases and weeds may also appear.

In terms of weeds, summer is not a good time to apply a general weed killer to the lawn which should ideally be done in the autumn. Keeping the lawn well cut will help to control weeds and larger persistent weeds can be simply dug out.

Although there are a host of potential lawn diseases the most common pests are chafer grubs and leatherjackets which can cause significant damage to your lawn. If you notice patches of poorly growing, yellowing grass, check for signs of grubs feeding on the grass roots. These pests can be easily and safely controlled by applying a suitable nematode based product.

Mowing

As temperatures increase the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down. Cut twice a week when the grass is growing vigorously ensuring that you never take more than one third of the length of the lawn in any one cut. If temperatures become very hot and there are prolonged dry spells, your lawn may become stressed and you should reduce cutting to once a week. The ideal length for you lawn during the summer period is 30 – 35cm. As always a sharp mower is essential and if your mower doesn’t have a lawn box, rake up the cuttings after mowing.

Watering

Summer is the time when drought can occur and your lawn may turn brown and straw coloured. Where possible, avoidance is better than cure and the only way to prevent drought is to water the lawn. It is normally best to do this when the grass is still green but starting to show signs of stress (little growth and a dulling of the normal bright green coloration). General watering should be done either early morning or in the evening, which probably suits most of us. Please remember to follow any local restrictions when using water in summer.

Feeding

As a rule, you shouldn’t need to feed you lawn during the summer. However, there are a number of products readily available that can be applied directly after cutting the lawn. Also, applying a general plant food via a mixer on your hose will help to keep it green and healthy.

Bulb Planting for Spring Colour

If you want to be the envy of the neighbours next year then there is nothing more rewarding then creating a breathtaking and beautiful spring bulb display.

Most established and mature gardens will already have a range of bulbs naturalised in the boarders, under trees and even in the grass. But, there is still scope for trying out something new and even exotic to achieve some striking planting combinations.

Bulb catalogues are normally out in force at this time of the year or you can easily sign-up for them online. Spend some time cutting out pictures and arranging to create the planting combinations that not only appeal to you but also suit the growing conditions of your garden. All the information you need to know can be found in the catalogues.

In addition to tulips and daffodils, why not try other exotic Dutch bulbs, such as spring-flowering Scilla, Puschkinia, Muscari, Fritillaria, Allium, Camassia, and Eremurus. Spring-flowering bulbs offer a wide variety of colours, heights and flowering periods. So, let your imagination run wild.

And, don’t forget your containers. Containers are brilliant for bulbs as you can control the growing conditions, so this gives you a free reign to try out something different. You can plant larger containers with several layers of bulbs choosing different types that will flower one after another so keeping a fresh display for a number of months. Alternatively, try a combination of bulbs with other spring bedding plants.

As easy as 1-2-3

Most spring-flowering bulbs will thrive in either full or partial sun, but will do fine in almost any location that offers good drainage. After choosing the area:

• Dig either a trench for a bed planting, or individual holes for individual bulbs or small cluster of bulbs. To determine how deep to plant, consider the calibre or size of the bulb. Large bulbs (5 cm or more) are usually planted about 15 cm deep; smaller-size bulbs (2.5 cm) are planted 7-10 cm deep.
• Loosen the soil with a rake to aerate it and remove any weeds and small stones. Mix in a bit of peat moss to improve soil drainage. Place - do not push - bulbs firmly in the soil with the pointed side up. Space large bulbs 7-20 cm apart and small bulbs 3-7 cm apart.
• Cover the bulbs with soil and water generously if the soil is not wet. Adding a thin layer of bark or mulch will provide added protection from the cold and helps the soil from drying out.

A Splash of Colour

The concept of growing plants in containers offers a variety of enjoyable and creative ways to maintain and experiment with your garden.

Many plants are ideally suited for growing in all sorts of containers, although the most often used are bedding plants. However, plants such as shrubs, herbaceous perennials, herbs, climbers, alpines, bulbs, heathers, roses, dwarf fruit trees, strawberries and conifers should also be considered, either on their own or in combinations to provide all year round colour.

There are numerous benefits associated to container planting including the flexibility of planting where traditional gardening is awkward or impossible. Containers generally have greater mobility so can be relocated throughout the garden to maintain impact and pest control is much easier.

So, wherever you use them, containers will help break up the harsh lines of patios, walls, steps, paths and have an instant impact on any outside space.

A wide range of containers are available in a selection of materials such as clay, stone, terracotta, wood, plastic and wire. The shape and size of the container will influence the choice of plants, with larger plants such as shrubs and climbers requiring more space for the roots to grow.

Planting your containers

1. Place small stones or broken pieces of polystyrene or pots onto the bottom of the container to cover the drainage holes.
2. Lining the sides of the container with bubble plastic will protect plants against frost and reduce water loss, but make sure the water can drain away – do not line the bottom.
3. Add good quality potting compost so that plants, when placed on it, are about 3cm (1in) below the rim of their container. Work the potting compost in around the sides of the plants and level off. Make sure you water well. There are a number of products available which help to keep the soil damp, such as moisture retaining crystals or gel. These should be mixed in with the compost to the manufacturers recommendations.
4. Keep the container off the ground by placing small blocks underneath. This will prevent a vacuum and ensure proper drainage.

Looking after your containers

Never allow containers to dry out. It may be necessary to water in early morning and evening in hot weather.

Feed regularly during spring and summer. Use a top dressing of granular fertiliser in spring, followed by a liquid feed once week during the main growing season.

Remove dead flower heads, weed regularly and keep a close watch for pests and diseases which should be treated according to manufacturer's control recommendations.

Plant recommendations

Containers in sun	Containers in shade
Cordyline Australis 'Variegata'	Skimmia x Confusa 'Kew Green'
Argyranthemum 'Vancouver'	Viburnum Tinus 'Variegatum'
Cestrum Aurantiacum	Adiantum Pedatum
Erica Vagans 'Birch Glow’	Browallia Speciosa 'White Troll'
Helichrysum Petiolare	Ipheion Uniflorum 'Wisley Blue'
Felicia Amelloides	Hosta 'Shade Fanfare’
Lantana 'Radiation’	Heuchera Micrantha 'Palace Purple'
Nerium Oleander	Viola x Wittrockian
Picea Mariana 'Nana'	Primula Polyanthus
Chrysanthemum 'Mary Stoker'	Lunaria Annua

Frost Damage

Warm days encourage new, tender shoots that are often damaged by late, sharp frosts. In most cases the leaves look as if they have been scorched, and pale-brown patches often appear between the veins and on the exposed top and edges of the plant.

The new leaves of some plants may be completely blackened. These will just crisp up and drop off.

Frost damage is not always obvious. For instance, some plants may start losing blackened leaves weeks after the event. Any injured shoots should be cut off after flowering - new ones will soon replace them.

Cold and frost can cause spots to appear on the leaves of several shrubs, but don't worry; the leaves will naturally fall in early summer.

Handy Frost Tips

Check the weather conditions and forecasts for predicted frosts. You should then do two things: First, cover your plants, both to retain as much soil heat and moisture as possible and to protect them against strong winds, which can hasten drying and cooling. Ideal covering are straw, newspapers or horticultural fleece.

Second, keep the soil moist by watering your plants the day the frost is predicted. As the water freezes, it releases heat, protecting the plants, even though they're covered in ice.

How to Dead Head

Removing old flower heads or dead-heading your plants can extend their flowering period and improve their looks. It stops the plant from setting seed, which means that energy is used to produce more growth or flowers rather than diverted into seed head production. But there are some plants that you will grow which have attractive seed heads and fruit, which are also produced when flowers have died. Seed heads and fruit, as well as flowers, are major ornamental features. And, if you plan to grow more of the same plants from seed the following season you need the plants to set seed.

Here's a short list of some things that you will not want to dead-head: Clematis orientalis - late flowering clematis; Lunaria - honesty, Nigella - Love-in-a-mist; Pyracantha - firethorn; ornamental grasses. Some annuals and biennials will not produce any more flowers even after dead-heading. Poppies (Papaver) are the classic example here. In contrast, the flowered stems of lupins (Lupinus) can be cut back to the base when the first flower flush has faded. You may be rewarded by a second later flush of flowers.

Annuals for deadheading include: petunias, fleshy begonias, busy Lizzies (Impatiens), geraniums (Pelargoniums) and most of the other classic annuals grown for summer colour will keep on flowering if old flowerheads are removed. Flowering season can be extended by removing dead flower heads.

Dead-heading also improves the vigour of bulbs, as they will put energy back into the bulb for next year's flowers. Nip off the dead flowerhead of bulbs growing in longer grass.

For climbers, dead-heading is not always a practical option with many climbers. But where you can reach, take off the dead flower heads as they fade. If you want decorative seed heads or fruit, dead-head about a third of the plant stems, to keep up a flowering display.

Many perennials will flower for much longer if dead headed. So as not to denude borders completely, remove faded flower heads regularly, to promote longer flowering.

Don't dead-head roses which only flower once a season, or varieties grown for their decorative hips. Bush roses and repeat flowering climbers and ramblers respond well to you removing their dead blooms. Take out individual faded heads from each truss. When the whole truss has finished flowering, cut stems just above the second or third leaf down.

There are shrubs which benefit if their spent flower heads are removed so that energy is put into producing new growth for next season. It's not essential for the health of the shrub, but you may want to deadhead in very tiny gardens, or the shrubs which are closest to your house and patio. Use your fingers and thumbs to pick off faded heads where they join the stem of the plant. If you tear or snag stems, use secateurs to trim.

Nuture Your Plants

Your garden might seem like it's sleeping right now but, look a little closer and you'll see exciting activity beginning to happen. So now is the time to clear up weedy beds and begin mulching to get it ready for spring.

Benefits of Mulch

Mulching can be one of the most beneficial things you can do for your soil and your plants. If you have not considered mulching your garden in the past, you may want to reconsider.

Mulches are a labour saving device for the gardener. A layer of mulch will help prevent the germination of many weed seeds, reducing the need for cultivation or the use of herbicides. Mulches also help moderate the soil temperature and retain moisture during dry weather, reducing the need for watering. Mulches protect the soil from the impact of raindrops that can cause crusting. Crusting can prevent the germination of seedlings.

While there are many types of mulch, organic mulches such as wood chips, grass clippings, or other locally available materials help improve the soil by adding organic matter as they decompose. They also may encourage the growth of worms and other beneficial soil organisms that can help improve soil structure and the availability of nutrients for plants.

Choosing a mulch material

What is your primary objective in using mulch? If you are most interested in weed control in a vegetable garden, a layer of newspaper covered with grass clippings or just grass clippings will work well. However, if you are finishing off a beautiful perennial garden in the front of your house, you probably will want to use something more attractive such as bark mulch.

• How long do you want the mulch to stay in place? If you are mulching around shrubs that will remain in place for years, you may want to use inorganic mulches such as brick chips, marble chips, or stone. While these will not provide organic matter to the soil, they will be permanent. Note that they are difficult to remove if you change your mind or want to add bulbs or perennials.

• How much money do you want to spend? Mulching does not need to be expensive. Some communities offer chipped wood or compost to residents. Leaves, newspaper, and grass clippings are inexpensive mulches.

• How much will you need? To be effective, most organic mulches need to be between 2 and 4 inches thick. Therefore, a 10 feet by 10 feet garden mulched 3 inches deep will require 25 cubic feet of mulch.

Gardening- No Thanks

Gardening – No thanks

As I review a plethora of gardening calendars for this month I keep coming to the same conclusion. It’s just too cold and wet! We can expect sub-zero temperatures, gale force winds, frost pockets and a deluge of rain.

However, for those of us willing to brave the outdoors this is the month to batten down the hatches and make sure everything is secure, well staked and protected. And, if you are feeling particularly adventurous then you could always ventilate the greenhouse on sunny days, dig over vacant plots, prune apple and pear trees and reshape the lawn.

Vegetables – Yes please

Alternatively, why not start thinking vegetables. I started growing ‘my-own’ last year on a small scale and was truly amazed at the results. Ok, we never became self-sufficient, but picking your own ripe tomatoes in October was a real sense of achievement, if not slight odd!

You don’t have to have masses of space to grow vegetables, a small sunny area in the garden is ideal or alternatively you can use a range of containers. From my experience last year, the amount of success you have or yield, very much depends on the time you want to invest.

If you’re not an experienced grower, then I would advise keeping it simple and manageable at least in the first year. Select some of the basic family favourites, but don’t be put of experimenting with some of the Classic Mediterranean vegetables such as tomatoes, aubergines and peppers especially if you have a sheltered hot spot such as a sunny patio.

Seed or Seedlings
Again, this rather depends on your time. There are a host of seeds available and a large number are now ‘sow direct’ which as the name suggests can be sown direct into your plot or out into your containers. Alternatively, you can sow into seed trays and shelter them during the colder weather before planting them out later.

Seedlings are obviously more expensive but provide greater flexibility as you simply plant them out as and when they are available at your local garden centre. However, you maybe limited on choice in some instances.

General care

• For containers most crops will grow perfectly well in a multi-purpose compost, either peat based or peat free.

• If sowing into the ground, then ensure the plot is weed free, has good drainage and dig in a soil improver or manure to give you crops a kick-start.

• Maintain an even water supply and ensure good drainage to prevent water-logging.

• Apply a high nitrogen liquid fertiliser if growth flags and high potassium liquid fertiliser for flowering and fruiting crops.

• Ensure any pest and disease control products you use on your vegetables or fruit are suitable for edible plants.