Containers & Hanging Baskets

Containers & Hanging Baskets

Many plants are ideally suited for growing in all sorts of containers, although the most often used are bedding plants.However, plants such as shrubs, herbaceous perennials, herbs, climbers, alpines, bulbs, heathers, roses, dwarf fruit trees,strawberries and conifers should also be considered, either on their own or in combinations to provide all year round colour.

Containers are easy to maintain and can be moved around to give a fresh look to the garden. Select a good balance of upright and trailing plants according to the shape and size of the container. Remember that Summer containers can be replanted for Autumn and Winter colour.

Wherever you use them, containers will help break up the harsh lines of patios, walls, steps and paths.

A wide range of containers are available including:

Hanging Baskets
Half Barrels
Pots
Window Boxes
Troughs
Mangers
Wall Baskets

Plant recommendations

•containers in sun
•containers in shade

In a selection of materials such as clay, stone, terracotta, wood, plastic and wire. The shape and size of the container will influence the choice of plants, with larger plants such as shrubs and climbers requiring more space for the roots to grow.

Planting your container

1. Place small stones or broken pieces of polystyrene or pots onto the bottom of the container to cover the drainage holes.
2. Lining the sides of the container with bubble plastic will protect plants against frost and reduce water loss.
3. Add good quality compost so that plants, when placed on it, are about 3cm (1in) below the rim of their container. Work the potting compost in around the sides of the plants and level off. Make sure you water well.
4. Keep the container off the ground by placing small blocks underneath. This will prevent a vacuum and ensure proper drainage.

Looking after your containers

Never allow containers to dry out. It may be necessary to water in early morning and evening in hot weather and they must be watered in Autumn and Winter if required.

Feed regularly during Spring and Summer. Use a top dressing of granular fertiliser in Spring, followed by a liquid feed once week during the main growing season.


Remove dead flower heads, weed regularly and keep a close watch for pests and diseases which should be treated according to manufacturer's control recommendations.

Hanging baskets

These provide eye-catching displays and help to break up harsh architectural lines. Use plenty of trailing plants so that the base of the basket is well covered once established. Use wall-mounted baskets if hanging space is not available.

How to plant a hanging basket

1. Use a bucket or pot for support while planting and make sure plants are well-watered before starting. Place a plastic disc or old saucer on top of the moss in the base before adding compost to help retain moisture.

2. Line the basket with moss to halfway up the sides, or use a liner. Half fill with potting compost containing water retaining granules and slow-release fertiliser which should last the whole growing season.

3. Plant three foliage and three flowering plants through the sides of the basket. If using moss, then line to the top of the basket and fill to the top with compost.

4. Plant a tall plant in the centre andplant three foliage and threeflowering plants round the top edge of the basket. For larger baskets simply use more plants.

5. Once planted, water thoroughly, allow to soak and repeat. Protect from strong sunlight for two or three days and protect from frost. Dead-head regularly, water frequently and liquid feed towards the end of the flowering season.

Grow Bag Gardening

As a child I remember my dad using grow-bags on the patio for growing his tomatoes and my mum complaining about the sight of them. But, they have come a long way since those early days and now have dedicated websites, blogs, flicker sites and even their own houses.

So what is the phenomenon?

Traditionally the bags were used in the greenhouse because of their space saving efficiency and also plants or vegetables would not become infected by any diseases lurking in the existing soil. Although, they are still widely used in the greenhouse they make ideal plantings areas for small gardens where space is at a premium.

How to prepare and plant

• Loosen the compost in the bag by shaking and kneading it like a pillow.
• Shape the bag into a low hummock, making sure compost is evenly spread.
• Pierce the base of bag for drainage and cut out the pre-marked planting areas of a trough if you are planting salad crops.
• Scoop out compost from each planting area leaving a big enough hole for the root ball of your plant. Put a plant in each hole and refill around it with compost. The top of each root ball should be just below the top of the bag.
• Improve the effectiveness of your watering by burying a small flower pot in the compost alongside each tomato plant. Filling the pot when you water means water is directed to the roots of the plant and doesn't run off the surface of the compost.

What to grow

Growing bags are ideal for plants that don't have deep roots, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers, chilli peppers, aubergines and courgettes. However, with so many additional accessories available such as bottomless plant pots you could try a whole range of plants for instant colour in difficult planting areas.

Aftercare

If you are growing taller or top-heavy or top-heavy crops push a cane into the bag next to each plant. Tie the plant to the cane and attach the cane to a frame. This will prevent the plants from toppling over in the wind or if they become top heavy.

Keep the compost moist and feed plants such as aubergine, tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers with a high potash fertiliser when flowers appear - this will ensure you get the plumpest fruit. When crops have finished, split the bag open and recycle the compost as a soil conditioner in the garden.

Herb Garden

Where to site your herb garden?

Ideally, the sunniest part of your garden. Herbs like an open and sunny but sheltered site, with neutral to alkaline soil, with good drainage.

If you have clay soil, the best thing to do is roughly dig over the soil in autumn and leave the soil to be broken down by frost over the winter. This works by the rough soil being exposed to the wet weather and soaked by water and when the frosts come, the soil expand and breaks down.

Then in early spring - and this goes for sandy, chalky or silt soil as well - dig through plenty of organic matter, such as well-rotted garden or mushroom compost. This will provide the free-draining and fertile bed your herbs will need. You do not need to feed or fertilise your herbs as this will result in lots of growth, but do little to enhance the flavour or aroma. Herbs with excessive growth are also more prone to frost damage.

Planning

The planning for your herb garden is only limited by the size of your plot and your imagination. What would you like to grow? And how big will it get??
When you buy herbs in pots from a garden centre, on the label it will tell you how tall, and wide your plant will get. Often, packets of seeds will give you the same information. When planning your garden, you will need to take into account the eventual size of your plants. For instance, if you are planning an island border in your lawn, the tallest herbs go in the centre and the lower-growing ones on the outside.

Varieties

There is an extensive selection of herbs available, so are you going to use your herbs for cooking or adding aroma and fragrance to your garden, As well varieties don’t forget colour. Herbs come in a range of colours from cream to glossy green, to silver, and all shades of pink to deep purple.

Herbs in containers

If you have limited space in your garden then herbs are also idea for containers. Just remember to use quality multi-purpose compost and make sure the containers have adequate drainage. You must make sure the containers are kept well watered, as they tend to dry out a lot quicker than if they are planted in the ground.

Some herbs are very invasive such as mint so it would be advisable to plant this in its own container. Again, check the planting instructions that come with your herbs to see what the overall size of the herb will be once fully grown

Popular Garden Herbs

	BASIL, SWEET (Ocimum basilicum) Both green and 'Dark Opal' basil are attractive plants for the garden. Basil is not difficult to transplant. Grows to 18 inches; space 12 inches between plants. 'Dark Opal' has beautiful deep red foliage and lovely pink flowers. Basil is very good to use to flavour tomato juice and tomato pastes.
	BORAGE (Borago officinalis) This has pinkish blossoms which turn blue like the perennial pulmonaria. It is an annual and should be planted directly to the garden in early May in the North. Growing to 2 feet it should be spaced 10 inches apart. Germinates in 7 -to 10 days. Resents transplanting except when quite small. It is excellent used in tossed salad to add a flavour.
	CHERVIL (Anthriscus cerefolium) Although this plant will germinate in the fall and live over the winter it is best to grow it as an annual, sowing in mid-May Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 8 inches apart. This herb grows quickly and is mature in 6 weeks. Resents transplanting. Fresh leaves can be frozen in small packets after washing carefully.
	CHIVES (Allium scboenoprasum) This is a perennial plant that are very easy to grown from seed or plant. Mature plants grow to 12 inches, space 6 inches apart. They are very hardy even in cold locations. Flowers are pretty enough so that chives can be grown as a border or in the rock garden. Ideal in salads, egg dishes and a variety of sauces. Chives will also grow on a sunny windowsill over winter.
	DILL (Anethum graveolens) This is an easily grown annual with feathery foliage. Blossoms are tiny and pale yellow. Grows to 2 1/2 feet and germinates in 7 to 10 days planted at the same time as tender vegetables. Resents transplanting. May be spaced as close as 4 inches apart. Self-sows readily. Fine for use in pickling and to flavour meats.
	MARJORAM, SWEET (Majorana hortensis) This is a perennial that grows to 12 inches; space 6 inches apart. Plants may be potted up and grown in the greenhouse or sunny window over the winter. Adds a delicate flavour to lamb, fish, salads and soups.
	MINT (Mentha spicata) Mint is very easy to grow. It is a hardy perennial and spreads by root stolons. Sown indoors seed germinates in 10 to 15 days. It grows to 2 feet and is rather sprawling, in habit. Space 12 inches apart. Favours a good rich soil. Fine to use for mint jelly and in mint juleps, lemonade and other fruit drinks.
	SAGE (Saivia officinalis) This is a hardy perennial and is often grown in gardens for its pretty foliage and spikes of bluish flowers. Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 12 inches apart. Can be sown outdoors in May with germination in 21 to 30 days. An ideal herb for dressings for chicken, turkey, pork and for flavouring sausages.

A Splash of Colour

The concept of growing plants in containers offers a variety of enjoyable and creative ways to maintain and experiment with your garden.

Many plants are ideally suited for growing in all sorts of containers, although the most often used are bedding plants. However, plants such as shrubs, herbaceous perennials, herbs, climbers, alpines, bulbs, heathers, roses, dwarf fruit trees, strawberries and conifers should also be considered, either on their own or in combinations to provide all year round colour.

There are numerous benefits associated to container planting including the flexibility of planting where traditional gardening is awkward or impossible. Containers generally have greater mobility so can be relocated throughout the garden to maintain impact and pest control is much easier.

So, wherever you use them, containers will help break up the harsh lines of patios, walls, steps, paths and have an instant impact on any outside space.

A wide range of containers are available in a selection of materials such as clay, stone, terracotta, wood, plastic and wire. The shape and size of the container will influence the choice of plants, with larger plants such as shrubs and climbers requiring more space for the roots to grow.

Planting your containers

1. Place small stones or broken pieces of polystyrene or pots onto the bottom of the container to cover the drainage holes.
2. Lining the sides of the container with bubble plastic will protect plants against frost and reduce water loss, but make sure the water can drain away – do not line the bottom.
3. Add good quality potting compost so that plants, when placed on it, are about 3cm (1in) below the rim of their container. Work the potting compost in around the sides of the plants and level off. Make sure you water well. There are a number of products available which help to keep the soil damp, such as moisture retaining crystals or gel. These should be mixed in with the compost to the manufacturers recommendations.
4. Keep the container off the ground by placing small blocks underneath. This will prevent a vacuum and ensure proper drainage.

Looking after your containers

Never allow containers to dry out. It may be necessary to water in early morning and evening in hot weather.

Feed regularly during spring and summer. Use a top dressing of granular fertiliser in spring, followed by a liquid feed once week during the main growing season.

Remove dead flower heads, weed regularly and keep a close watch for pests and diseases which should be treated according to manufacturer's control recommendations.

Plant recommendations

Containers in sun	Containers in shade
Cordyline Australis 'Variegata'	Skimmia x Confusa 'Kew Green'
Argyranthemum 'Vancouver'	Viburnum Tinus 'Variegatum'
Cestrum Aurantiacum	Adiantum Pedatum
Erica Vagans 'Birch Glow’	Browallia Speciosa 'White Troll'
Helichrysum Petiolare	Ipheion Uniflorum 'Wisley Blue'
Felicia Amelloides	Hosta 'Shade Fanfare’
Lantana 'Radiation’	Heuchera Micrantha 'Palace Purple'
Nerium Oleander	Viola x Wittrockian
Picea Mariana 'Nana'	Primula Polyanthus
Chrysanthemum 'Mary Stoker'	Lunaria Annua